These lizards are found in the arid and desert regions of northwestern India throughout southwestern Asia, the Arabian Peninsula to the Sahara of North Africa. Basic care reflects this area of the world.
The larger the caging the better. A good rule of thumb is to provide caging three to four times the length of the adult animal and half again as much in depth. Most Uromastyxs like to and need to burrow in soil with Uromasty geyri being the exception. U. geyri likes a hiding box, in the wild they are in rocky clefts. The top should be open/screen top, to provide good ventilation. Soil when used should be clayey/loam. 5 to 12 inches deep will allow a lot of digging activity. Before adding soil I put in bricks that will make a opposite side foundation and place on top of it a 16" x 16" flagstone brick. This will guarantee that when the animal digs under the flagstone it will not collapse on the animal. I usually will soak with water the soil or sand then allow it to dry out before placing in the animal. Now the soil will retain its shape. Sand can be used for adults not for babies/juveniles. Sand will cause stomach impaction and then death of babies and juveniles. I recommend paper for babies with a hide box. Other substrate I have success with is pine shavings. I put in 4" of shavings then lay some strips of cardboard on top that the lizards will burrow under. If you soak the shavings and then dry before introducing the lizards, it too will hold its shape and let the lizards make burrows through it. I have seen no problem with this setup for young. The lizard needs a hiding place-hide box or burrow. Clean the cage daily removing all fecal matter. It is best if you wear plastic gloves for your health and wash gloves/hands when cleaning multiple cages. Outside caging where temperatures are high enough to permit optimal activity are highly recommended.
Heat? These lizards love heat. I like a heat light above the flagstone so they have a basking spot. Temperature needs to hit 100-115F for at least 4 hours a day(place on timer) when the lizards are active. So using a thermometer laid on the stone you move up or down the heat source to get the temperature right. A full spectrum UV with high UVA and UVB fluorscent lighting is place 10 to 20 inches above the substratum and placed on a timer for 12 hours. This allows you enjoy looking at your animals, gives it a photoperiod and allows it to produce vitamin D3. These bulbs should be replaced every 6 months with new ones even though it seems like they are working. Night temperatures should stay above 70F during active periods.
The tropical species, U. mayfadyeni, U. yemensis, U. benti, U. ocellata, and U. princips should never have temperatures below 65F, day or night, or death will occur.
It is natural for all of these lizards to have a quiet time each year where day and night hi temperature is less than normal 115F=90F(daily) and 75F=65F(night). Flourescent light at 8 hours. No food should be offered. 60 days is long enough. Then slowly( over a two month period) bring back up the temperature and amount of day light hours. Keep babies active all year. This will cause your adult animals to want to breed. Good luck.
Uromastyxs are mainly herbivorous though many species like insects added to their diet. Main vegetables we use are cabbage, squash(all varietys), parsley, unfrozen peas, fresh green beans. Dry lentils, split peas, millet and small birdseed blends many of the lizards will take. Adult large Uromastyxs like Milo a lot. Food should be place on a flat surfaced item not directly on the ground. This will help keep soil off the food. Most Uromastyx will take mealworms and crickets. Even freeze dried or defrosted insects will be eaten by those that like insects. You don't have to feed live insects. The main idea here is to make your lizards diet as varied as possible. Adding a multivitamin supplement every other week is ok and for babies every third feeding is good.
A misting of water each week for babies is good to help with their shedding plus they will lap up drops of water. Adults will like a misting each month during active periods. Don't be afraid to mist, if the cage temperature is getting high enough each day the water will evaporate quickly, leaving the cage dry.
These lizards are territorial. Males alone or with females will work. Two males together will produce a dead male soon. Many persons keep all of their animals separate while others like to keep small groups of one male and multiple, upto 4 females in a cage. Groups must be introduced together at one time. Never introduce a new animal into a established cage. If you wish to add a new animal you need to take apart the inside of the cage, change soil and setup. This may work. Fighters should be separated.
Any and all questions concerning Uromastyx care will be answered,
Thanks
Noel Alt
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